Stitches were made using a cylinder and bending it into shape. I hoped by adding subtle attention to detail it would improve the model and make it really come to life and stand out. Happy with the overall form of the rabbit toy attention was given to some smaller details such as the stitches. The inner construction was made in 3DS max out of cylinders that had certain edge loops expanded. Trying to replicate the real soft toy’s eye I created an outer clear layer and the inner construction as shown in the image below. Luckily I have a similar soft toy and was able to study the shape and construction of the eye. Tomorrow will be the start of poly painting so I hope you enjoy these posts!Īs mentioned before the eyes were just rough guidelines for the socket shape. Just the one post today as it is a bit ‘wordy’ and finishes off the sculpting process of this project.
Rabbit Toy ZBrush Sculpt Continues…Part 3! With this material you will have to play around with the settings, once you find the right fur settings it is advised to save it as a new material.įur only shows when rendered with bpr so for quick tweaks turn fur on, leave anti-aliasing off and turn down settings on any other bpr options for faster render times. Unfortunately there is not much advice I can give you to help produce fur for your character. Fur length, density, waviness, gravity, variations, colour blending and many other settings were adjusted until satisfied. To get the look I desired a lot of tweaking and bpr rendering was necessary. This character was made using ZBrush 4 and thus the fur material was used (expect a re-render with the new fibermesh in ZBrush 4R2 to come!). Poly painting is now complete and its time to sort out the materials especially fur. It started off with block base colours and was slowly built up with different detail colours at different opacities. Normal and cavity masking were used a lot to help distinguish between different areas and add some painted shading effects. The techniques used to paint are the same as previous projects. By doing this it keeps a natural and symmetrical build up of colour and keeps similar areas looking the same. Once the dirtier brown colour was added to part of the model, I moved onto the next area before changing colour. What I mean by this is that all the areas were given the same creamy base colour, this then moved on to some of the dirtier browns. I did this to keep the similarly coloured areas the same. The below image shows that most of the light colour areas are painted. To keep things accurate the reference image was imported into ZBrush so that colours can be selected from it and used on the model. These masks are injected so each one comes out exactly the same every time with minimal flashing and no sanding required.With the modelling complete it was time to move onto poly painting. The moulding was new for me but actually worked really well and the cores worked first time aside from a few small adjustments. Came out beautifully, very proud of our little printer considering we've only printed as high as 100 microns before now.
The Arrow took some experimenting as we needed to keep the texture intact so it was printed upright with supports at 80 microns. The masks are urethane rubber with ribbon/velcro closures, I sculpted the straps long enough that you shouldn't see ribbon unless you have the hood down.īoth masks were sculpted in Zbrush (the arsenal was my first attempt at Zbrush) then we printed/finished them. It wasn't until recently that we had time to revisit it and make more show accurate mask and while we were at it, we did the Arsenal too as its one of my personal favorite mask designs out there (I like simplicity lol) After posting my original Arrow mask sculpt not long after the promo images were released, LOADS of people kept asking for a strapped version once we knew there was one.
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